Monday, March 4, 2013

Break It Down For Me, Fellas...

Did you ever wonder why certain wines taste so amazing with certain foods?  Why, even your favorite wine, just doesn't go well with your favorite appetizer?  The Stay At Home Winos always preach that the rules of wine are not hard and fast, and that even if a certain wine "isn't supposed to" be paired with a certain food, it is okay to go with what you enjoy.  However, the "rules" are in place to allow you to get the most "joy" out of both the wine and the food.  That joy being determined by others who know a lot about the subject.  I recently purchased, and am currently enjoying, a book that discusses the art and science behind food, wine and flavor.  But a little history first.

The question of why foods and drinks go together so well requires delving into a subject I do not profess to know much about - molecular gastronomy - which is a subsection of Food Science.  Molecular Gastronomy is defined as that which seeks to investigate, explain, and make practical use of the physical and chemical transformations of ingredients that occur while cooking, as well, as the social, artistic and technical components of culinary at gastronomic phenomena in general. (Wikipedia.com)  

The term was first used by late Oxford Physicist Nicholas Kurti and the French INRA Chemist Herve This (known as the Father of Molecular Gastronomy) in 1992 as the title for a set of workshops held in Italy to discuss the science behind traditional cooking preparations.  Technically, the term "molecular gastronomy" was coined only to refer to the scientific investigation of cooking, although some adopted the term as a style of cuisine or referring to cooking itself. 

(Wikipedia.com)

Later, some chefs rejected the term as a mis-classification of their food and cooking.  One such chef was Ferran Adria of the famed restaurant elBulli.  In a joint statement, released in 2006, Adria and other chefs stated that "molecular gastronomy" was used in 1992 only to refer to a single workshop that did not influence them, and does not describe any style of cooking.  (Heston Blumenthal (2006-12-10). "Statement on the New Cookery - Guardian Observer. London: Observer.guardian.co.uk. Retrieved 2010-09-08.)



(Ferran Adria-Wikipedia)

The restaurant referred to in the paragraph above, sets the stage for the fantastic book on the subject that I keep referring to, but we will discuss this book a bit later.  In the meantime, lets talk about elBulli!  (http://www.elbulli.info)




(Front and Rear views of elBulli-Wikipedia.com)

This famous Michelin 3 star restaurant, near the town of Roses, Catelonia, Spain is run by Chef Ferran Adria.  This amazing restaurant has been named "Best Restaurant in the World" a record five times (2002, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009) and was #2 in 2010. 

elBulli is known for its groundbreaking research on methodologies in the kitchen and dining room and is said to be influenced by molecular gastronomy.  This unique and controversial restaurant is said to have received over one million table requests per year, but could only fill around 8,000.  

The restaurant closed on July 30, 2010 due to the massive monetary loss it was incurring.  After some confusion as to the future of elBulli, it was stated that it will reopen in 2014 under a new format and focusing on the limits of creativity from an interdisciplinary view.  (Elbulli.com. 2010-01-26.)  However, the latest information states that the restaurant is closed and has been converted to the elBullifoundation.  No further information is known about the direction of elBulli.  Interestingly, since elBulli has closed as a restaurant, its wine cellar will be sold by Sothebys in April of 2013.  See http://www.sothebys.com/en/sales-series/2013/the-elbullicellar-sold-to-benefit-the-elbullifoundation/overview.html for more information.

This research also partly influenced my latest read, "Taste Buds and Molecules" by Francois Chartier.  



(jbprince.com)

I read an article about "Tastebuds and Molecules" recently in a wine magazine and it was extremely intriguing!  Not necessarily for the chemistry portion of it, but for the results!  The book sets forth a cutting edge approach of wine and food pairing.  While traditional pairings that one can locate on the internet are helpful, what if you could know the breakdowns of foods and wines that would allow you to know the most perfect pairings?!  This book breaks down food and wines to a molecular level (hence the name) to find those perfect pairings.  The author even makes clear that if you aren't interested in the science, buy the book for the recipes and pairings he offers!

The book is divided into two main sections - the introductory chapters which discusses aromas and flavors, among other subjects (including a chapter on elBulli!) and chapters on food and wine pairing.  For example, there is a chapter on beef.  The chapter discusses the makeup of the animal and divides the section into grass fed and grain fed types of beef.  Further, it discusses aged and angus beef, various stages of cooking and why they go well with certain types of wines and cooking techniques related to wine pairing.  There are three charts in this chapter.  First, a charge on volatile compound and aromas/textures/flavors; Second, a chart discussing complementary wines based on the type of beef and how it is prepared, and third a charge outlining complementary foods to go along with beef, as well as complementary foods rich in amino acids/umami.  This chapter also discusses lamb and pork.  WOW!  You could use this as a map to the perfect meal and wine pairing AND know why!  What a conversation starter!

There are many other chapters focusing on cheeses, as well as other spices, aromas and flavor enhancements.  All those chapters have similar charts to those discussed in the previous paragraph.  This book is truly a who, what, when, where and why of preparing food and pairing wines.  Chartier has put a tremendous amount of research into this wonderful and informative book, including much information credited to Ferran Adria and Juli Soler from elBulli.  He is clear in his acknowledgements, that their work has "transformed" his way of thinking "since 1994".  Further, Juli Soler and Ferran Adria from elBulli wrote one of the Forewards in Chartier's book.

This book is truly a must-have for anyone who enjoys cooking great meals and pairing with great wines.

Taste Buds and Molecules by Francois Chartier can be found at any major book outlet, including Barnes and Noble and Amazon.

Cheers!

Mary Jo

Wine Word of the Week
 
Balance - a term used to describe a wine that has an equilibrium between its components - acid, tannins, alcohol, fruit, etc. In a well balanced wine, one component doesn't overwhelm the other components. A fine well will be a balanced wine.





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